| Building with Lisa |
Reducing Construction Costs
At least 18% of dump contents consist of construction scrap material. Everything from insolation to electric appliances
collects at the dump. While you shouldn’t expect to find everything you need exactly when you need it, scanning local
dumps during blueprint planning and throughout construction is probably the least efficient, but most fruitful routes.
Lumber yards and hardware superstores loom their factory fresh gadgets and materials. Ooh, so sparkly. Visit the
dumpsters in their alleys. They don’t want it. You’re offering a garbage pick-up service in a sense. If, however, dumpster
diving is “Against the Law!” in your area, thrift stores and pawn shops often have tools and such. Habitat for Humanity
Restores offer everything needed in building a house. You can probably find these large construction thrift stores near any
medium/large city.
Another option to consider is using any natural materials at hand. If building near clay-rich soil, cob, earthborn, or cord
wood (if trees are near) could save tons. If the landscape is rocky, use rocks; the same with local straw farmers, fallen trees,
etc. If you want bricks, look near fill dirt sites or demolition sites. Workers might even pay you to “dispose” of them. This
goes likewise for dug clay on construction sites. Conventional, main-stream construction involves digging a huge hole for
a basement and tossing a stick-frame box-house on top. The exuded dirt is discarded. One of their trucks must use gas
dollars to transport that “waste dirt” elsewhere. So, of course they won’t mind, usually, if you offer to haul some off for
them. If you don’t have a truck, you could try persuading the clean-up crew to take a detour to your site. Free things are
great!
In Montana, the most desirable home is a well-insulated home. So, Tom, my mentor, sought out a nearby super-insolation
factory. Super-insolation consists of two beadboard/plywood panels sandwiching Styrofoam, totaling a 6-9" thickness.
Needless to say, this insulation is quite expensive when bought new. This factory, however, discarded mountains of mis-
cut or otherwise rejected panels, trucking enormous loads to the dump every few weeks. All the super-insulation used for
Tom’s 2,500 sq. ft. house, greenhouse, and roof was free, besides the gas necessary in transportation.
The house’s outer walls were slip-form stone, using stones dug from the foundation. Things pertaining to electric and
plumbing were generally bought at the Habitat for Humanity Restore, but we scavenged the dump for material regularly
(esp. for lumber).
Depending on footage and design, your home could be free, or at least cheaper than what conventional methods entail.
Recycled material makes every home unique. It’s a cheaper, more sustainable way to live.
Landscaping
In China, scientists are developing flowers capable of withstanding the vastly polluted environment. Most other locations
don’t face this problem yet, and enjoy simpler methods of gardening. There are pansies and paradise flowers galore, and I
see lawns and entryways promoting these lovely plants every day. How lovely.
Imagine these gardens did more than just “sit there and be pretty," though. In truth, a beautiful landscape can also benefit
the grower, owner, and/or community. Most gardeners have at least heard of permaculture, but to novice landscapers, the
word might sound like something creeping from a petri dish. Permaculture, a subject easily researchable at any
reasonable library, is a form of gardening that promotes a healthy ecosystem while producing edible fruits, vegetables,
and herbs. Rather than exterminating or uprooting weeds such as dandelions and violets, let them grow and add a variety
of other small herbs and edible weed seeds. Chamomile, verbena, chard, and any number of worts are just a few that
could brighten your yard and kitchen. It takes a few years to progress to larger plants and trees in this manner, but
permaculture experts such as Fukokue have proven the benefits outweigh the labor and patience inherent in the
design.
Even a small garden could offer all the beauty you desire while lowering your grocery bill. Even a gas station could
replace pansies with berry bushes or the like. I don’t know that I would munch on them, but the birds would appreciate the
treats. Permaculture is a great way to improve your life, environment, and consumer dependency all at the same time.
For more information on permaculture, visit http://www.context.org/ICLIB/IC14/Fukuoka.htm
Why I Don’t Wipe with the Boreal Forest
Those who have seen the majestic Redwood, Boreal, and White Pine forests, among others, probably agree that
defecating on them is disgraceful. Recycling, conserving, and re-greening the environment is the new global trend, yes.
Human survival is suddenly top priority. Walk into any grocery store and find an organic section and “green”,
environmentally safe products peppered throughout the facility. Nowhere is it noted on any of the products what goes into
producing them. Consumers aren’t aware of the fact that companies such as Scott, Keenex, Kimberly Clark, Tradition,
WyPall, Kimtech, and Windows (seat covers)* rake their materials from old-growth forests. Paper towels, toilet paper, seat
covers, tissue paper, paper plates, cups...it is all coming from these beloved trees. According to Greenpeace, "Kimberly-
Clark continues to buy fiber from companies that log in intact and ecologically important boreal forests in Ontario and
Alberta, Canada."**
Other, non- recycling companies do business without raping the old growth by using FSC (Forest Stewardship Council)
approved fibers. This means that trees are still cut for your butt, but their new-growth forests are “managed sustainably.”
This means that trees are cut selectively, farmed, or otherwise reasonably harvested while the ancient giants of the forest
are left untouched.
Furthermore, brand names such as Greenwise and 365 offer exceptional, environmentally friendly products for the same or
cheaper price than most alternatives, whether leading or store brand. So, deck out your kitchen and bathrooms with 100%
recycled products without a hike on your grocery bill.
If you find yourself sickened by the thought of using the last of that Scott 1000, consider emptying the old-growth into the
recycling bin, or send the products back to the factories with a letter suggesting they change their policies. The Boreal
Forest, among others, will benefit.
Read Greanpeace's investigative report on Kimberly Clark here: http://www.greenpeace.org/canada/en/documents-and-links/publications/chian-of-lies
facts found at:
*http://forestfriendly500.org/kcproducts
**http://www.greenpeace.org/international/news/kc-response
Water Conservation
With the Earth’s fresh water supply literally pouring down the drain, water conservation should, and inevitably will,
maintain high priority in both construction and our daily lifestyles. There are two main objectives in water conservation;
collecting and reusing. Collecting rain water, especially in dry areas, could offer miraculous benefits, including gardens,
pools, or lengthy showers during drought season. Recycling water, the second objective, is a little trickier, but with the
right materials and layout, the average home owner needs little more than a few good illustrations.
These goals appear simple, and, indeed, they are relatively simple to achieve. However, some locations suffer from
excessive pollution, and, consequently, acid rain. Collecting water in these areas may require additional filtering and
purification systems. Determination or disparity could provide that extra push towards sustainability. Some cultures
institute funnel roofs in their residential designs, allowing all rain to collect in a pool below the funnel. A greenhouse
funnel, I think, would be optimum, coupling elegance and sustainability. However, since a funnel roof is more easily
installed before completing the structure, independent funnels or alternative water collection systems may prove more
convenient for modern home-owners.
Water collection systems, though one must maintain them, provide useful fresh water while lowering bills and your
dependency on the local water table. Over the next few years, the Earth’s temperature will likely increase, whether due to
pollution, sun expansion, or a combination of the two. A bottle of water at the gas station is generally a dollar or more.
How much are you ready to spend on water?
Brad Lancaster, author of Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands, points out that,
“More than 6.1 billion hectares, 47.2% of the Earth’s land surface, is dryland. A fifth of the world’s population lives in
dryland habitat. Normal dry seasons can last six months or more. Droughts can last for years."
If rainwater harvesting is not already a familiar practice to you or your community, consider that it may one day be. Take
Georgia, for example, this once lush state is now fumbling for river rights in order to keep its grass alive. Brad Lancaster
also states that
"By valuing and harvesting the ignored resource of rain, groundwater levels can stabilize and even rise again, failing
springs and creeks can come back to life, native plants can recolonize wasteland, and ultimately the global grydrologic
cycle can benefit, while we simultaneously reduce our cost of living!"
Even if a community still depended on the local water table, rather than total rainwater dependency and gray water
recycling, the demand would, in all but severe cases, slacken enough to allow the water table to replenish. So, suppose
you wanted to switch over right now; trade in that water bill for a hand-built collection system. The water catchment
surface (where the rain falls) is one of two main components. The roof is probably the most common response to this step.
Suzy Banks and Richard Heinichen agree that metal roofs are the way to go.
“If your existing roof isn't metal, don't despair. Unless it's flat and covered with tar and gravel (whoever invented this roof
should be tarred and gravel-ed) or one of the old asbestos nightmares, nearly any roof can serve as a collection surface."
The problem is, modern roofing techniques often involve tarring the shingles in place. Go out and look at your roof. If
you know for sure that tar and/or harmful chemicals weren’t inherent in the roofing process, go ahead and channel that
runoff. If your one of million with inadequate roofs, balance the cost of a new, metal or naturally treated wood roof with
that of an independent collection plain.
Also consider the amount of water your household uses. With a gray water system the amount of water required is
relatively low, but in dry areas where no water recycling system is in use, a larger collection surface and cistern may be
necessary. Water cisterns range anywhere from free to a couple thousand dollars (USD). Visit your local dump. Discarded
barrels and cisterns are usually easy to find and cleaning and capping a recycled receptacle is much cheaper than a
factory-fresh cistern. There are some dumps, I know, that restrain citizens from pillaging. This idea is strange to me and I
insist there must be some way around the restrictions. A friend of mine in Montana confronted just this problem with
chickens. A few free hens for daytime access offered her thousands of dollars in discarded materials and equipment.
Recycling resources only benefits the system and, consequently, you. It’s hard to picture just how much water goes
through a single house in a day. Depending on the number of people switching the faucet on, a small waterfall might
prove accurate. According to Banks and Heinichen:
One extra long shower using 5 gallons per minute: 75 gallons
Hand-washing dishes throughout the day, water running: 25 gallons
Brushing teeth, water running at 2 gallons per minute (Don't forget to floss): 3 gallons
Wawshing hands: 2.5 gallons
Flushing toilet: 1.5 gallons to 7 gallons (!) per flush
A Load of laundry in a top loading washer: 40-50 gallons
Dog Water Bowl: 2 quarts per day
How about a swimming pool, large fish tank, or Jacuzzi? Houses that include rainwater collection and a gray water system
represent the optimum design. For those unfamiliar with gray water recycling, the basic idea is to filter and reroute all
water from sinks, showers, and electric washers. Gardeners often irrigate plants with the gray water, but rechanneling the
water back into household pipes invites even the inner-city citizens a chance to lower their water bills.
Gray water systems, while not difficult to design, require a good amount of labor to install. If installing your own system is
simply too much, look for a decent plumber and hand him an illustrated book on the subject (the local library should have
something). The system is, of course, simpler if constructed in conjunction with the rest of the house, but re-routing water
lines and placing a few gravel filters in the ground will certainly pay off.
Whether you desire a luxurious garden or simply extra drinking water, water collection and gray water systems are the most
economical and, in the end, most money-saving options today. Individual households and even planned communities
can conserve water just by re-evaluating conventional designs and constructing collection pools. Keep your grass green
and family hydrated, but consider your ecological impact. Conservation helps us all.
Lancaster, Brad. Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands, Vol. 1, Guiding
Principles to Welcome Rain into Your Life and Landscape. Rainsource
Press. Tuscon, AR: 2006. Pg. 3
Lancaster, Brad. Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands, Vol. 1, Guiding
Principles to Welcome Rain into Your Life and Landscape. Rainsource
Press. Tuscon, AR: 2006 Pg. 3
Banks, Suzy and Richard Heinichen. Rainwater Collection for the
Mechanically Challenged. Tank Town Publishing. Dripping Springs,
TX.: 2004. Pg. 16
At least 18% of dump contents consist of construction scrap material. Everything from insolation to electric appliances
collects at the dump. While you shouldn’t expect to find everything you need exactly when you need it, scanning local
dumps during blueprint planning and throughout construction is probably the least efficient, but most fruitful routes.
Lumber yards and hardware superstores loom their factory fresh gadgets and materials. Ooh, so sparkly. Visit the
dumpsters in their alleys. They don’t want it. You’re offering a garbage pick-up service in a sense. If, however, dumpster
diving is “Against the Law!” in your area, thrift stores and pawn shops often have tools and such. Habitat for Humanity
Restores offer everything needed in building a house. You can probably find these large construction thrift stores near any
medium/large city.
Another option to consider is using any natural materials at hand. If building near clay-rich soil, cob, earthborn, or cord
wood (if trees are near) could save tons. If the landscape is rocky, use rocks; the same with local straw farmers, fallen trees,
etc. If you want bricks, look near fill dirt sites or demolition sites. Workers might even pay you to “dispose” of them. This
goes likewise for dug clay on construction sites. Conventional, main-stream construction involves digging a huge hole for
a basement and tossing a stick-frame box-house on top. The exuded dirt is discarded. One of their trucks must use gas
dollars to transport that “waste dirt” elsewhere. So, of course they won’t mind, usually, if you offer to haul some off for
them. If you don’t have a truck, you could try persuading the clean-up crew to take a detour to your site. Free things are
great!
In Montana, the most desirable home is a well-insulated home. So, Tom, my mentor, sought out a nearby super-insolation
factory. Super-insolation consists of two beadboard/plywood panels sandwiching Styrofoam, totaling a 6-9" thickness.
Needless to say, this insulation is quite expensive when bought new. This factory, however, discarded mountains of mis-
cut or otherwise rejected panels, trucking enormous loads to the dump every few weeks. All the super-insulation used for
Tom’s 2,500 sq. ft. house, greenhouse, and roof was free, besides the gas necessary in transportation.
The house’s outer walls were slip-form stone, using stones dug from the foundation. Things pertaining to electric and
plumbing were generally bought at the Habitat for Humanity Restore, but we scavenged the dump for material regularly
(esp. for lumber).
Depending on footage and design, your home could be free, or at least cheaper than what conventional methods entail.
Recycled material makes every home unique. It’s a cheaper, more sustainable way to live.
Landscaping
In China, scientists are developing flowers capable of withstanding the vastly polluted environment. Most other locations
don’t face this problem yet, and enjoy simpler methods of gardening. There are pansies and paradise flowers galore, and I
see lawns and entryways promoting these lovely plants every day. How lovely.
Imagine these gardens did more than just “sit there and be pretty," though. In truth, a beautiful landscape can also benefit
the grower, owner, and/or community. Most gardeners have at least heard of permaculture, but to novice landscapers, the
word might sound like something creeping from a petri dish. Permaculture, a subject easily researchable at any
reasonable library, is a form of gardening that promotes a healthy ecosystem while producing edible fruits, vegetables,
and herbs. Rather than exterminating or uprooting weeds such as dandelions and violets, let them grow and add a variety
of other small herbs and edible weed seeds. Chamomile, verbena, chard, and any number of worts are just a few that
could brighten your yard and kitchen. It takes a few years to progress to larger plants and trees in this manner, but
permaculture experts such as Fukokue have proven the benefits outweigh the labor and patience inherent in the
design.
Even a small garden could offer all the beauty you desire while lowering your grocery bill. Even a gas station could
replace pansies with berry bushes or the like. I don’t know that I would munch on them, but the birds would appreciate the
treats. Permaculture is a great way to improve your life, environment, and consumer dependency all at the same time.
For more information on permaculture, visit http://www.context.org/ICLIB/IC14/Fukuoka.htm
Why I Don’t Wipe with the Boreal Forest
Those who have seen the majestic Redwood, Boreal, and White Pine forests, among others, probably agree that
defecating on them is disgraceful. Recycling, conserving, and re-greening the environment is the new global trend, yes.
Human survival is suddenly top priority. Walk into any grocery store and find an organic section and “green”,
environmentally safe products peppered throughout the facility. Nowhere is it noted on any of the products what goes into
producing them. Consumers aren’t aware of the fact that companies such as Scott, Keenex, Kimberly Clark, Tradition,
WyPall, Kimtech, and Windows (seat covers)* rake their materials from old-growth forests. Paper towels, toilet paper, seat
covers, tissue paper, paper plates, cups...it is all coming from these beloved trees. According to Greenpeace, "Kimberly-
Clark continues to buy fiber from companies that log in intact and ecologically important boreal forests in Ontario and
Alberta, Canada."**
Other, non- recycling companies do business without raping the old growth by using FSC (Forest Stewardship Council)
approved fibers. This means that trees are still cut for your butt, but their new-growth forests are “managed sustainably.”
This means that trees are cut selectively, farmed, or otherwise reasonably harvested while the ancient giants of the forest
are left untouched.
Furthermore, brand names such as Greenwise and 365 offer exceptional, environmentally friendly products for the same or
cheaper price than most alternatives, whether leading or store brand. So, deck out your kitchen and bathrooms with 100%
recycled products without a hike on your grocery bill.
If you find yourself sickened by the thought of using the last of that Scott 1000, consider emptying the old-growth into the
recycling bin, or send the products back to the factories with a letter suggesting they change their policies. The Boreal
Forest, among others, will benefit.
Read Greanpeace's investigative report on Kimberly Clark here: http://www.greenpeace.org/canada/en/documents-and-links/publications/chian-of-lies
facts found at:
*http://forestfriendly500.org/kcproducts
**http://www.greenpeace.org/international/news/kc-response
Water Conservation
With the Earth’s fresh water supply literally pouring down the drain, water conservation should, and inevitably will,
maintain high priority in both construction and our daily lifestyles. There are two main objectives in water conservation;
collecting and reusing. Collecting rain water, especially in dry areas, could offer miraculous benefits, including gardens,
pools, or lengthy showers during drought season. Recycling water, the second objective, is a little trickier, but with the
right materials and layout, the average home owner needs little more than a few good illustrations.
These goals appear simple, and, indeed, they are relatively simple to achieve. However, some locations suffer from
excessive pollution, and, consequently, acid rain. Collecting water in these areas may require additional filtering and
purification systems. Determination or disparity could provide that extra push towards sustainability. Some cultures
institute funnel roofs in their residential designs, allowing all rain to collect in a pool below the funnel. A greenhouse
funnel, I think, would be optimum, coupling elegance and sustainability. However, since a funnel roof is more easily
installed before completing the structure, independent funnels or alternative water collection systems may prove more
convenient for modern home-owners.
Water collection systems, though one must maintain them, provide useful fresh water while lowering bills and your
dependency on the local water table. Over the next few years, the Earth’s temperature will likely increase, whether due to
pollution, sun expansion, or a combination of the two. A bottle of water at the gas station is generally a dollar or more.
How much are you ready to spend on water?
Brad Lancaster, author of Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands, points out that,
“More than 6.1 billion hectares, 47.2% of the Earth’s land surface, is dryland. A fifth of the world’s population lives in
dryland habitat. Normal dry seasons can last six months or more. Droughts can last for years."
If rainwater harvesting is not already a familiar practice to you or your community, consider that it may one day be. Take
Georgia, for example, this once lush state is now fumbling for river rights in order to keep its grass alive. Brad Lancaster
also states that
"By valuing and harvesting the ignored resource of rain, groundwater levels can stabilize and even rise again, failing
springs and creeks can come back to life, native plants can recolonize wasteland, and ultimately the global grydrologic
cycle can benefit, while we simultaneously reduce our cost of living!"
Even if a community still depended on the local water table, rather than total rainwater dependency and gray water
recycling, the demand would, in all but severe cases, slacken enough to allow the water table to replenish. So, suppose
you wanted to switch over right now; trade in that water bill for a hand-built collection system. The water catchment
surface (where the rain falls) is one of two main components. The roof is probably the most common response to this step.
Suzy Banks and Richard Heinichen agree that metal roofs are the way to go.
“If your existing roof isn't metal, don't despair. Unless it's flat and covered with tar and gravel (whoever invented this roof
should be tarred and gravel-ed) or one of the old asbestos nightmares, nearly any roof can serve as a collection surface."
The problem is, modern roofing techniques often involve tarring the shingles in place. Go out and look at your roof. If
you know for sure that tar and/or harmful chemicals weren’t inherent in the roofing process, go ahead and channel that
runoff. If your one of million with inadequate roofs, balance the cost of a new, metal or naturally treated wood roof with
that of an independent collection plain.
Also consider the amount of water your household uses. With a gray water system the amount of water required is
relatively low, but in dry areas where no water recycling system is in use, a larger collection surface and cistern may be
necessary. Water cisterns range anywhere from free to a couple thousand dollars (USD). Visit your local dump. Discarded
barrels and cisterns are usually easy to find and cleaning and capping a recycled receptacle is much cheaper than a
factory-fresh cistern. There are some dumps, I know, that restrain citizens from pillaging. This idea is strange to me and I
insist there must be some way around the restrictions. A friend of mine in Montana confronted just this problem with
chickens. A few free hens for daytime access offered her thousands of dollars in discarded materials and equipment.
Recycling resources only benefits the system and, consequently, you. It’s hard to picture just how much water goes
through a single house in a day. Depending on the number of people switching the faucet on, a small waterfall might
prove accurate. According to Banks and Heinichen:
One extra long shower using 5 gallons per minute: 75 gallons
Hand-washing dishes throughout the day, water running: 25 gallons
Brushing teeth, water running at 2 gallons per minute (Don't forget to floss): 3 gallons
Wawshing hands: 2.5 gallons
Flushing toilet: 1.5 gallons to 7 gallons (!) per flush
A Load of laundry in a top loading washer: 40-50 gallons
Dog Water Bowl: 2 quarts per day
How about a swimming pool, large fish tank, or Jacuzzi? Houses that include rainwater collection and a gray water system
represent the optimum design. For those unfamiliar with gray water recycling, the basic idea is to filter and reroute all
water from sinks, showers, and electric washers. Gardeners often irrigate plants with the gray water, but rechanneling the
water back into household pipes invites even the inner-city citizens a chance to lower their water bills.
Gray water systems, while not difficult to design, require a good amount of labor to install. If installing your own system is
simply too much, look for a decent plumber and hand him an illustrated book on the subject (the local library should have
something). The system is, of course, simpler if constructed in conjunction with the rest of the house, but re-routing water
lines and placing a few gravel filters in the ground will certainly pay off.
Whether you desire a luxurious garden or simply extra drinking water, water collection and gray water systems are the most
economical and, in the end, most money-saving options today. Individual households and even planned communities
can conserve water just by re-evaluating conventional designs and constructing collection pools. Keep your grass green
and family hydrated, but consider your ecological impact. Conservation helps us all.
Lancaster, Brad. Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands, Vol. 1, Guiding
Principles to Welcome Rain into Your Life and Landscape. Rainsource
Press. Tuscon, AR: 2006. Pg. 3
Lancaster, Brad. Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands, Vol. 1, Guiding
Principles to Welcome Rain into Your Life and Landscape. Rainsource
Press. Tuscon, AR: 2006 Pg. 3
Banks, Suzy and Richard Heinichen. Rainwater Collection for the
Mechanically Challenged. Tank Town Publishing. Dripping Springs,
TX.: 2004. Pg. 16
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Constructing Concrete Counters
Having just knocked out the foam sink spacer in the bathroom counter top, I’ll throw all the 2x4's back in the scrap pile and
smooth over the counter’s rough corners.
Creating concrete counters is a 1-2 day setup process followed by a good four-day wait. Start out with bare cabinets. Cut
out any holes needed for plumbing and secure the frame to the wall. Make sure the cabinet is level. Now, figure out how
wide these counters need to extend. Cut plywood squares 1 1/4" too big on all sides excluding the wall-facing ends.
Measure the height of the counters and cut supporting boards so that a leg extends down every foot or so along the
counter rim. Cutting these legs precisely right might be tricky. The weight of the concrete will push them down, yes, but
having the legs level and perpendicular to the counter prevents the curing concrete from cracking. Since prying these
boards off later might crack the concrete, screw them in from the top. Using screws throughout this project could greatly
decrease the amount of time spent laboring and cursing over it.
Now, find enough 2x4's to span the length of the plyboard rim. Cut accordingly and place boards on their 2" sides, making
a retaining wall for the concrete mix. Remember, use screws. If rounded corners are what you want, find thin plastic or
something along the lines of t-shirt box cardboard and pack sand in the triangle between the curved board and 2x4's.
Make sure the curved material is no lower than the rim boards. In fact, just keep everything flush with the rim boards to
keep trowling simple.
Next, cut lengths of metal rebar for a two-layer grid along the surface. So, measure the width and length of the counter
tops, taking into account the lengths between the sink hole and wall (you’ll want a lot of support around the sink). Make
sure to use a grinding blade for this job. Once the pieces are cut, space them evenly over the counter surface in a grid
pattern. Keep the bottom layer on bottom and the top layer on top; no weaving. Naturally, the tighter the grid spacing,
the stronger the structure. For the kitchen counters, our grid left 4-5"squares. Once the rebar grid is in place, sink 1" screws
at all the cross sections. Leave each screw just barely screwed in, but make sure they are shorter than the rim boards. Find
some good, bendable wire and cut quite a few 1/2-1" lengths. Wrap the wire around each screw so that it hugs and lifts
the bottom layer rebar at least ½" above the plywood. Pliers make an easy job of twisting and tightening the wire wraps.
Fasten the upper layer to the bottom in the same manner. Before acting further, lean on the rebar to ensure stability. If
the grid falls under your weight, it won’t hold concrete.
Cut a stopper, we used Styrofoam, for the sink hole. Make sure it fits snugly. To keep the stopper surface level with the rim
boards, use a hand saw to shave off the excess. This is the last prep. step. You are ready to pour the concrete.
For easy staining purposes, use white cement. Mix 3 parts sand, 2 parts silica sand, 2 parts cement, 2 parts fine gravel,
about 1 quart of acrylic bonding agent, and enough water to make the mixture thick and soupy. If you don’t have access
to a cement mixer or if the counter is small, use a short hoe (or shorten a garden hoe) and wheel barrel. Pour ingredients
into said wheel barrel or the cement mixer and mix until even and soupy. Add as much dye as you see fit. Use a bucket or
coffee can to transport the mix to the counter mold. Pour and trowel smooth. Use a long board or some flat edge to level
the surface.
Now for the wait. You’ll notice the color lightening after a few days curing. This is normal. Wait at least three days before
removing the rim boards and leg supports. Wet the counters and keep a moist rag handy for re-application. Use a grinder
for the rough surfaces and sand smooth. Along the rim and maybe even on the top surface, you might find bubble
impressions or pock marks. To fill these, throw in a little of all the ingredients into a small container and mix thoroughly.
Make this batch at least, if not more, soupy than the initial counter mix. Before applying, wet the area. Use rubber gloves
to rub the mix roughly into the holes. Wait another two days and grind and sand the surface to suite your taste.
Finally, unless the supporting screws penetrate the plywood underneath, the foam spacer should knock right out. Set the
sink in, hook up the water lines, and caulk the seems. Stain and seal the surface. Consider natural alternatives, such as a
grape juice or carrot stain with a linseed oil and beeswax sealant. Linseed oil and beeswax will have require re-
application, but most conventional alternatives rely on toxic chemicals. It’s up to you. Kids will have a blast helping out.
Just have an extra sponge and juice bowl nearby for any who care to join in.
Allow the sealant a day at least to dry. Find a dark corner to test the sealant. Fruit, believe it or not, is most likely to stain
the concrete. Drip or rub some fruit juice on your chosen spot. Wipe the surface clean and note whether a mark remains.
If so, apply another sealant coat. If not, enjoy this completed masterpiece.
Having just knocked out the foam sink spacer in the bathroom counter top, I’ll throw all the 2x4's back in the scrap pile and
smooth over the counter’s rough corners.
Creating concrete counters is a 1-2 day setup process followed by a good four-day wait. Start out with bare cabinets. Cut
out any holes needed for plumbing and secure the frame to the wall. Make sure the cabinet is level. Now, figure out how
wide these counters need to extend. Cut plywood squares 1 1/4" too big on all sides excluding the wall-facing ends.
Measure the height of the counters and cut supporting boards so that a leg extends down every foot or so along the
counter rim. Cutting these legs precisely right might be tricky. The weight of the concrete will push them down, yes, but
having the legs level and perpendicular to the counter prevents the curing concrete from cracking. Since prying these
boards off later might crack the concrete, screw them in from the top. Using screws throughout this project could greatly
decrease the amount of time spent laboring and cursing over it.
Now, find enough 2x4's to span the length of the plyboard rim. Cut accordingly and place boards on their 2" sides, making
a retaining wall for the concrete mix. Remember, use screws. If rounded corners are what you want, find thin plastic or
something along the lines of t-shirt box cardboard and pack sand in the triangle between the curved board and 2x4's.
Make sure the curved material is no lower than the rim boards. In fact, just keep everything flush with the rim boards to
keep trowling simple.
Next, cut lengths of metal rebar for a two-layer grid along the surface. So, measure the width and length of the counter
tops, taking into account the lengths between the sink hole and wall (you’ll want a lot of support around the sink). Make
sure to use a grinding blade for this job. Once the pieces are cut, space them evenly over the counter surface in a grid
pattern. Keep the bottom layer on bottom and the top layer on top; no weaving. Naturally, the tighter the grid spacing,
the stronger the structure. For the kitchen counters, our grid left 4-5"squares. Once the rebar grid is in place, sink 1" screws
at all the cross sections. Leave each screw just barely screwed in, but make sure they are shorter than the rim boards. Find
some good, bendable wire and cut quite a few 1/2-1" lengths. Wrap the wire around each screw so that it hugs and lifts
the bottom layer rebar at least ½" above the plywood. Pliers make an easy job of twisting and tightening the wire wraps.
Fasten the upper layer to the bottom in the same manner. Before acting further, lean on the rebar to ensure stability. If
the grid falls under your weight, it won’t hold concrete.
Cut a stopper, we used Styrofoam, for the sink hole. Make sure it fits snugly. To keep the stopper surface level with the rim
boards, use a hand saw to shave off the excess. This is the last prep. step. You are ready to pour the concrete.
For easy staining purposes, use white cement. Mix 3 parts sand, 2 parts silica sand, 2 parts cement, 2 parts fine gravel,
about 1 quart of acrylic bonding agent, and enough water to make the mixture thick and soupy. If you don’t have access
to a cement mixer or if the counter is small, use a short hoe (or shorten a garden hoe) and wheel barrel. Pour ingredients
into said wheel barrel or the cement mixer and mix until even and soupy. Add as much dye as you see fit. Use a bucket or
coffee can to transport the mix to the counter mold. Pour and trowel smooth. Use a long board or some flat edge to level
the surface.
Now for the wait. You’ll notice the color lightening after a few days curing. This is normal. Wait at least three days before
removing the rim boards and leg supports. Wet the counters and keep a moist rag handy for re-application. Use a grinder
for the rough surfaces and sand smooth. Along the rim and maybe even on the top surface, you might find bubble
impressions or pock marks. To fill these, throw in a little of all the ingredients into a small container and mix thoroughly.
Make this batch at least, if not more, soupy than the initial counter mix. Before applying, wet the area. Use rubber gloves
to rub the mix roughly into the holes. Wait another two days and grind and sand the surface to suite your taste.
Finally, unless the supporting screws penetrate the plywood underneath, the foam spacer should knock right out. Set the
sink in, hook up the water lines, and caulk the seems. Stain and seal the surface. Consider natural alternatives, such as a
grape juice or carrot stain with a linseed oil and beeswax sealant. Linseed oil and beeswax will have require re-
application, but most conventional alternatives rely on toxic chemicals. It’s up to you. Kids will have a blast helping out.
Just have an extra sponge and juice bowl nearby for any who care to join in.
Allow the sealant a day at least to dry. Find a dark corner to test the sealant. Fruit, believe it or not, is most likely to stain
the concrete. Drip or rub some fruit juice on your chosen spot. Wipe the surface clean and note whether a mark remains.
If so, apply another sealant coat. If not, enjoy this completed masterpiece.